Fish help Fish care-scroll down
 1. coelacanth, witch evolved into modern day fish. Note: coelacanth still lives! 2. an early amphibian. |
Natural history of all fish
Fish are ancient water-dwelling creatures found all over the globe. They are the world's oldest vertebrates, with the first fish appearing some 500 million years ago. Today more than 24,000 species populate the waters of the world. Fish are vertebrates and breathe using gills, which draw oxygen from the water and into the bloodstream. Most have bony skeletons, though sharks and rays have skeletons made of cartilage. Nearly all reproduce by laying eggs.
Fish are cold-blooded aquatic animals with backbones, gills, and fins. Most fishes are torpedo-shaped (fusiform) for efficient travel through water, but much variation occurs, from flattened and rounded, as in flounders, to vertical and angular, as in sea horses. Fishes range in size from the pygmy goby, Pandaka pygmaea, of the Philippines, which reaches only 12 mm (0.5 in) long and about 1.5 g (0.05 oz) in weight and is sexually mature at 6 mm (0.25 in), to the whale shark, Rhincodon typus, which grows to 18 m (60 ft) long and over 20 tons in weight. Fish were among the first animals systematically hunted by primitive humans. Even today, relatively primitive societies in the South Pacific and South America depend largely on fish for food; while in many industrialized nations, fish still constitute a major part of the diet. It is said that the search for codfish led French fishermen to the discovery of Canada and that villages sprang up on the coasts of Norway, Scotland, Japan, and other countries wherever shoals of herrings regularly came close to shore. Today fishes are harvested for unprocessed human food, fish meal, animal feed, and oil. They also are pursued avidly by sport anglers, who contribute to the economy of fishing areas and to specific industries. Currently, however, the increasing human population, overfishing to supply this population, and pollution of the world's waters are all cutting heavily into the world supply of fish, and threatening the existence of a number of species. At the same time, regulations to curtail the taking of certain species or sizes are virtually unenforceable on an international level. We are doing all we can to spread the word about this.
Fish are cold-blooded aquatic animals with backbones, gills, and fins. Most fishes are torpedo-shaped (fusiform) for efficient travel through water, but much variation occurs, from flattened and rounded, as in flounders, to vertical and angular, as in sea horses. Fishes range in size from the pygmy goby, Pandaka pygmaea, of the Philippines, which reaches only 12 mm (0.5 in) long and about 1.5 g (0.05 oz) in weight and is sexually mature at 6 mm (0.25 in), to the whale shark, Rhincodon typus, which grows to 18 m (60 ft) long and over 20 tons in weight. Fish were among the first animals systematically hunted by primitive humans. Even today, relatively primitive societies in the South Pacific and South America depend largely on fish for food; while in many industrialized nations, fish still constitute a major part of the diet. It is said that the search for codfish led French fishermen to the discovery of Canada and that villages sprang up on the coasts of Norway, Scotland, Japan, and other countries wherever shoals of herrings regularly came close to shore. Today fishes are harvested for unprocessed human food, fish meal, animal feed, and oil. They also are pursued avidly by sport anglers, who contribute to the economy of fishing areas and to specific industries. Currently, however, the increasing human population, overfishing to supply this population, and pollution of the world's waters are all cutting heavily into the world supply of fish, and threatening the existence of a number of species. At the same time, regulations to curtail the taking of certain species or sizes are virtually unenforceable on an international level. We are doing all we can to spread the word about this.
Breeding history of goldfish
Exotic Goldfish (also known as "Fancy Goldfish", "Oriental Goldfish" or "Chinese Goldfish") are the earliest fish to be domesticated by humans. All modern goldfish are decended from the Carassius auratus gibelio carp (aka, the "Gibel Carp") that lived in East Asia in the 3rd century. The gold color was first observed in pond carp in China approximately 1700 years ago during the Jin Dynasty. They were first bred in captivity approximately 1000 years ago during the Tang Dynasty by Buddhist Monks. These were the first fish to resemble what we now think of as the Common Goldfish.
The first goldfish probably originated from the Zhejiang province in China. The gold was a mutation that was very desriable and aggressively cultivated until it became the standard color of modern goldfish we see today. Other color variations followed centuries later. The most recent colors are the Blue and Chocolate (red/brown) varieties. Common Goldfish were first introduced to Japan in the 1500s, to Europe in the 1700s, and to the United States in the mid 1800s.
All goldfish are the same species, despite their extreme differences in appearance, and all are capable of interbreeding. When different breeds of goldfish mate, the offspring they produce what are referred to as "sport" varieties and commonly have attributes from both parent breeds. These are often frowned upon by purists. True Sport fish are usually intended as a one-time product. However, different breeds are also sometimes crossed to introduce a new single specific trait into one of the pure breeds (new colors or patterns for example), with the goal of maintaining the rest of the traits of that specifc breed.
Contrary to popular belief, the Goldfish did not "evolve" from the Gibel Carp; genetically they are the same species, in the same way that a Bulldog and a Poodle are the same species. They are Gibel Carp that have been selectively bred by humans to fix certain traits. Goldfish can breed with the wild Gibel carp and still produce viable offspring. Even though different breeds of goldfish may look radically different, they are all the same species of fish.
Koi are not Goldfish, though they look very similar. Though related to the Gibel Carp (and therefore to goldfish), they are not only a different species, but also a different genus. Both are members of the cyprinidae family however (which includes Barbs, Danios, and some algea eaters). The relationship of Koi to Goldfish is similar to that of Horses and Donkeys; They can breed, but the offspring are sterile and usually unappealing. Unlike goldfish, all Koi have a traditional "fish-shaped" body. The only way Koi differ from each other (with a few exceptions) is the patterns on their skin; they never have radically different body shapes or split fins like goldfish. Koi mouths are more rounded in profile, and positioned lower on the body. True Koi will always have barbels (whiskers) on the sides of their mouths. Goldfish and Koi/Goldfish hybrids do not.
The first goldfish probably originated from the Zhejiang province in China. The gold was a mutation that was very desriable and aggressively cultivated until it became the standard color of modern goldfish we see today. Other color variations followed centuries later. The most recent colors are the Blue and Chocolate (red/brown) varieties. Common Goldfish were first introduced to Japan in the 1500s, to Europe in the 1700s, and to the United States in the mid 1800s.
All goldfish are the same species, despite their extreme differences in appearance, and all are capable of interbreeding. When different breeds of goldfish mate, the offspring they produce what are referred to as "sport" varieties and commonly have attributes from both parent breeds. These are often frowned upon by purists. True Sport fish are usually intended as a one-time product. However, different breeds are also sometimes crossed to introduce a new single specific trait into one of the pure breeds (new colors or patterns for example), with the goal of maintaining the rest of the traits of that specifc breed.
Contrary to popular belief, the Goldfish did not "evolve" from the Gibel Carp; genetically they are the same species, in the same way that a Bulldog and a Poodle are the same species. They are Gibel Carp that have been selectively bred by humans to fix certain traits. Goldfish can breed with the wild Gibel carp and still produce viable offspring. Even though different breeds of goldfish may look radically different, they are all the same species of fish.
Koi are not Goldfish, though they look very similar. Though related to the Gibel Carp (and therefore to goldfish), they are not only a different species, but also a different genus. Both are members of the cyprinidae family however (which includes Barbs, Danios, and some algea eaters). The relationship of Koi to Goldfish is similar to that of Horses and Donkeys; They can breed, but the offspring are sterile and usually unappealing. Unlike goldfish, all Koi have a traditional "fish-shaped" body. The only way Koi differ from each other (with a few exceptions) is the patterns on their skin; they never have radically different body shapes or split fins like goldfish. Koi mouths are more rounded in profile, and positioned lower on the body. True Koi will always have barbels (whiskers) on the sides of their mouths. Goldfish and Koi/Goldfish hybrids do not.
Beginner's guide
Fish are becoming a popular hobby and choice of pet, mostly because of the assumption that they are easy and take up little room. this is mostly true, but it depends on just about everything imaginable. While a person stands looking at all the choices of fish, it seems impossible to make the right choice. this guide tells you which fish you should and shouldn't choose.
- First off is the goldfish, which can come in many varieties and are relatively easy to take care of. however, DO NOT USE A BOWL. Unless you can find out a way to fit a filter inside, the poor critters are doomed.
- Bettas are another good choice for the beginner, but they fight to the death with there own kind. What makes them so easy to take care of is they have an organ that allows them to breath air, so if you forget to change the water it's not to big a deal. (You still should change the water though.)
- Beware the oscar! These are seemingly easy fish, but they grow huge, eat anything they can without choking, and are hard to take care of to begin with.
- Most tetras are suitable for a filtered tank and are easy to care for, but a few exceptions are very demanding.
- The classic guppy is a good choice, but again you must have a filter.
Fish care
When it comes to taking care of your fish, we try and be as useful as we can. We strive to be the leading fish adviser on the web, but we've got a long way to go.
Key to symbols
You will notice each kind of fish has an emoticon next to it. They are highlighted in red. These symbols help you understand how easy the fish is to take care of. A fish might have multiple symbols if their are different kinds.
- (: this symbol means the fish is easy and suitable for beginners.
- !: this symbol means the fish is a bit harder, not for beginners.
- ): this is a very hard fish in most cases, only for seasoned Aquariusts.
Freshwater
Freshwater tanks can be amazing when properly cared for. This image featres Ramerez' dwarf cichilid, Swordtails, tiger barbs, Moonlight gouramis, and more.
Things we've tried
Goldfish (:
The goldfish being our specialty with the fish club, these techniches are tried and true. these also work relatively well with other freshwater fish, but most is exclusive.
- DO NOT OVERFEED! Goldfish are constantly searching for food and will eat so much they will tear there stomache wall with food if they have the chance. feed 2-3 times a day, giving them 2-4 flakes depending on size. If your fish gets to be more than 4" long, move on to frozen and natural foods.
- Change the water as soon as you see debri and waste floating in the water. the easiest way to do it with a small aquarium or bowl is to take a pitcher and a cup. dip the cup into the water, pour into the pitcher, and mark the water line with a marker. Then, pour the water out and fill to the water line. This can also be used for larger tanks.
- some goldfish are more exotic(see pics.), and should not be put in a bowl. They are often mistreated and then mourned at death. to avoid this, start off with a common, or feeder, goldfish. they are playful and easy to take care of, on top of being colorful and bright.
- There is one disadvantage of these feeder goldfish. they have a short life span, and unless you put them in a filtered tank or add chemicals and change the water every day, they usually die within 2 months or less.
- Goldfish are very social, and if you have more than one to start with, if one dies you must replace the as soon as possible.
- Goldfish like plants to nibble on, this can be very entertaining. but it can also be a nuisance. You can substitute fake plants, but they don't like it as much.
Things from other sources
Bettas (:
What is a Betta? Bettas are beautiful and very popular aquarium fish. They are available in red, blue and assorted colors. They are also called Siamese Fighting Fish. They are slow moving and like to hover near the water surface. Bettas have a special air-breathing organ (labyrinth) that in nature, allows them to live in water with low oxygen content. For this reason they are sometimes kept in bowls. The bowl should be a minimum of 1.5 gallons. Bettas like warmth, so be sure to put them in a warm area of your home. UNFORTUNATELY, a betta, having a short lifespan, is likely to die within the course of a year. So sad.
Aquatic Plant: A useful plant is called a Peace Lily, or Brazilian Sword Plant. As the plant grows the roots grow down into the bowl. The roots provide some beneficial biological filtration to the bowl. (Bettas do not eat the roots- contrary to the directions some sets provide.)
Sunlight: Some indirect light will be beneficial for the aquatic plant. Avoid direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will cause unwanted algae growth.
Water: You can use tap water. Just add some chlorine neutralizer (NovAqua) to it. Bottled water is all right, but do not use distilled water. Let the water come to room temperature.
Water Changes: Change about 1/2 of the water once every week, smaller bowls may need it more often.
Food: Use a specialty Betta Food. We recommend HBH Betta Pellets, or Hikari Betta Pellets. Feed about once a day. Try just a few pellets at a time. Be sure to observe carefully and remove any uneaten food from the bowl with a fish net. Extra food will decay and foul the water.
Bottom Covering: You can add a small amount of gravel to the bottom of the bowl. Avoid any large size bottom covering such as large pebbles, glass gems, or marbles. Large pebbles can be a problem because food pellets will fall through to the bottom of the bowl, and decay.
Longevity: Bettas normal life span is 2 years.
Can you add other fish? No. Vase bowls should be limited to one Betta.
Aquatic Plant: A useful plant is called a Peace Lily, or Brazilian Sword Plant. As the plant grows the roots grow down into the bowl. The roots provide some beneficial biological filtration to the bowl. (Bettas do not eat the roots- contrary to the directions some sets provide.)
Sunlight: Some indirect light will be beneficial for the aquatic plant. Avoid direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will cause unwanted algae growth.
Water: You can use tap water. Just add some chlorine neutralizer (NovAqua) to it. Bottled water is all right, but do not use distilled water. Let the water come to room temperature.
Water Changes: Change about 1/2 of the water once every week, smaller bowls may need it more often.
Food: Use a specialty Betta Food. We recommend HBH Betta Pellets, or Hikari Betta Pellets. Feed about once a day. Try just a few pellets at a time. Be sure to observe carefully and remove any uneaten food from the bowl with a fish net. Extra food will decay and foul the water.
Bottom Covering: You can add a small amount of gravel to the bottom of the bowl. Avoid any large size bottom covering such as large pebbles, glass gems, or marbles. Large pebbles can be a problem because food pellets will fall through to the bottom of the bowl, and decay.
Longevity: Bettas normal life span is 2 years.
Can you add other fish? No. Vase bowls should be limited to one Betta.
Tetra care (: !: ):
When learning the ins and outs of tetra fish care, it helps to know something about the family history. Tetras are basically small, fast-moving fish in a family that contains hundreds of genera and thousands of species in a multitude of colors, shapes, and sizes. Tetra keepers generally fall quickly in love with these characins and keep several species at a time. Although some tetra species have individualized care needs, many thrive with common methods of tetra fish care.
The tetra is in the family Characidae, familiarly called characins. Some of the differences in tetra fish care stem from location. Part of the family, for instance the Congo Tetra and Blue Diamond Characin, is from Africa although most tetra species kept in community aquariums are indigenous to the rivers of South America. Many tetras, especially the African characins, are easily stressed by outside environmental factors like loud noises and bright light. Never tap on the glass of a tetra tank. Water magnifies the noise and which literally scares some smaller species to death!
All tetras have teeth and scales, but none has whiskers or barbels (whisker-like growths used for locating food). Tetras are typically mid-tank swimmers but come to the top to feed. Food that falls to the bottom of the aquarium is ignored. For this reason, it is very important not to over-feed tetras. Feed tetras as much as they will consume in three minutes. It’s a good idea to feed them small portions several times a day in lieu of feeding them a large feeding that goes to waste. Although no fish will overeat, leftover food rots and pollutes your aquarium water causing extra tetra fish care for you and stress for your characins.
Tetras can live on a diet of tropical flake food and freeze-dried treats, but many species show signs of stress, the first being noticeable color loss, if their diet isn’t supplemented with live food. In addition, most species need a live diet before breeding and most tetra fry need to be weaned from live feedings to the standard adult diet. In addition, tetras are omnivorous and enjoy an occasional treat of living plant matter. Live plants also offer the characin places to hide. Providing plants and other features like strategically placed pieces of driftwood for hiding is an important aspect of tetra fish care. However, just as important is to make sure that your tetras aren’t overcrowded.
Most tetras are schooling fish that thrive best when kept with at least half-a-dozen of their peers. A good rule-of-thumb for tetras is five inches of fish per gallon of soft to medium-hard water at a temperature of about 75F. Since most tetras are from 1 ¼ to 2-inches as adults, this means that you can stock a twenty-gallon tank with 50 to 80 tetras. Still, consider the displacement of water by aquarium features, plants, and strata and also leave a little space for evaporation when stocking your tank for optimal tetra fish care.
The tetra is in the family Characidae, familiarly called characins. Some of the differences in tetra fish care stem from location. Part of the family, for instance the Congo Tetra and Blue Diamond Characin, is from Africa although most tetra species kept in community aquariums are indigenous to the rivers of South America. Many tetras, especially the African characins, are easily stressed by outside environmental factors like loud noises and bright light. Never tap on the glass of a tetra tank. Water magnifies the noise and which literally scares some smaller species to death!
All tetras have teeth and scales, but none has whiskers or barbels (whisker-like growths used for locating food). Tetras are typically mid-tank swimmers but come to the top to feed. Food that falls to the bottom of the aquarium is ignored. For this reason, it is very important not to over-feed tetras. Feed tetras as much as they will consume in three minutes. It’s a good idea to feed them small portions several times a day in lieu of feeding them a large feeding that goes to waste. Although no fish will overeat, leftover food rots and pollutes your aquarium water causing extra tetra fish care for you and stress for your characins.
Tetras can live on a diet of tropical flake food and freeze-dried treats, but many species show signs of stress, the first being noticeable color loss, if their diet isn’t supplemented with live food. In addition, most species need a live diet before breeding and most tetra fry need to be weaned from live feedings to the standard adult diet. In addition, tetras are omnivorous and enjoy an occasional treat of living plant matter. Live plants also offer the characin places to hide. Providing plants and other features like strategically placed pieces of driftwood for hiding is an important aspect of tetra fish care. However, just as important is to make sure that your tetras aren’t overcrowded.
Most tetras are schooling fish that thrive best when kept with at least half-a-dozen of their peers. A good rule-of-thumb for tetras is five inches of fish per gallon of soft to medium-hard water at a temperature of about 75F. Since most tetras are from 1 ¼ to 2-inches as adults, this means that you can stock a twenty-gallon tank with 50 to 80 tetras. Still, consider the displacement of water by aquarium features, plants, and strata and also leave a little space for evaporation when stocking your tank for optimal tetra fish care.
Cichilid care ( angel fish are cichilids, to ) !: ):
Temperature Cichlid care begins with the aquarium. You need to be able to maintain the aquarium in such a way as to replicate the conditions in the original habitat of the cichlids. The ideal range of temperature would be between 74 F and 82 F, the optimum temperature being 78 F. For a tank of fry you could raise the temperature to between 80 F and 82 F. The higher temperature increases metabolism, leading the fry to eat more, and therefore grow more rapidly. Lowering the temperature helps in lowering the aggression levels of aggressive fish, by lowering their metabolism. Care should be taken to see that the cichlid tank is not kept in a sunny area or near an appliance that generates a lot of heat. It would be advisable to invest in a heater to maintain the temperature, and bear up against temperature fluctuations.
pH LevelOne of the most important aspects of cichlid care is maintaining the pH level. The water in the original habitat of the cichlids is high on the pH scale (alkaline). Do not make any sudden changes to the pH level of the aquarium water as this would adversely affect the health of your cichlids. A 7.5 to 8.5 range on the pH scale would be ideal for the cichlid aquarium water. Acidic water can be tackled by using substances like the common soda which is both inexpensive, and effective.
FiltrationFiltration is essential, as this is what keeps the environment of your cichlids clean. There are several types of filters that are available today. Sponge filters work very well especially for smaller tanks. These are inexpensive, and if cleaned regularly, can work effectively for years. Undergravel filters are not as effective, as they have to be well-covered by the substrate so that they can work effectively, and the cichlids are always trying to dig them out. Outside power filters are also effective. Get one, whose flow rate is suited to your tank size. All filters must be cleaned regularly for best results.
FeedingA variety of foods must be fed to your cichlids. Cichlid flakes and pellets, frozen, and even live food. Feed them smaller quantities frequently, rather than a large amount at one go. If you are unable to feed them often enough, you could provide them with rocks which have a lot of algal growth on them. Inappropriate kinds of food might make cause bloating, sickness, and may even be fatal. Cichlid care involves being aware of the specific needs of your cichlids, so do some research about them and their diets first.
Water ChangesAs I mentioned earlier, cichlid care begins with the aquarium. The aquarium being a closed environment, gets unclean quickly especially in case of overcrowding, excessive feeding, and ineffective filters. Hence you need to change the water regularly, and in small quantities. At least 10% of the aquarium water should be changed every week. Some species, such as the Malawi Cichlids which are prone to aggressiveness may become gentler with water changes of up to 30% every two weeks. Water changes if made more often during the breeding period, and during the time of raising the fry, is beneficial. If water changes are made regularly, then the level of substances that are potentially harmful will be reduced.
SubstratesSubstrates are used so that the alkalinity in the water may be maintained at its most optimum level. Substrates like gravel, crushed coral, and limestone help buffer the pH and maintain the alkalinity. Get a gravel siphon to clean the gravel. For tanks with undergravel filters, vacuuming is a good option to remove the dust and debris from the substrate. Tanks with plants however do not necessarily require vacuuming, as the roots themselves play a part in keeping the substrate clean. For African Cichlids, a 2" to 3" substrate works well as they dig a lot. For some cichlids, as little as a quarter inch of gravel works better.
Aggression ControlCichlids in general are territorial creatures, and hence they tend towards aggression in the lakes. The aquarium with its smaller area would naturally increase their aggression. It may not be possible to completely control cichlid aggression, but there are ways of reducing it. By employing methods such as reducing the temperatures in the aquarium, having a low male population, keeping species that are compatible with each other, isolating pairs that are breeding, a cichlid tank owner can control the aggression among his cichlids.
LightingLighting is also important for the aquarium. You need the appropriate lights to view your aquarium in the best possible way. Fluorescent lighting is the best as it reproduces the natural spectrum of light of the original habitat of the cichlids. Also, keep the lights subtle, as bright lights only disturb the fish, and also make them appear less colorful. Preferably, light your tank only towards evening. Leaving your aquarium lit throughout the day might lead to algae problems.
There are many other aspects to cichlid care such as adding salts to the water to help the cichlids combat pathogens and taking care of diseased fish, to decorating the aquarium itself.
pH LevelOne of the most important aspects of cichlid care is maintaining the pH level. The water in the original habitat of the cichlids is high on the pH scale (alkaline). Do not make any sudden changes to the pH level of the aquarium water as this would adversely affect the health of your cichlids. A 7.5 to 8.5 range on the pH scale would be ideal for the cichlid aquarium water. Acidic water can be tackled by using substances like the common soda which is both inexpensive, and effective.
FiltrationFiltration is essential, as this is what keeps the environment of your cichlids clean. There are several types of filters that are available today. Sponge filters work very well especially for smaller tanks. These are inexpensive, and if cleaned regularly, can work effectively for years. Undergravel filters are not as effective, as they have to be well-covered by the substrate so that they can work effectively, and the cichlids are always trying to dig them out. Outside power filters are also effective. Get one, whose flow rate is suited to your tank size. All filters must be cleaned regularly for best results.
FeedingA variety of foods must be fed to your cichlids. Cichlid flakes and pellets, frozen, and even live food. Feed them smaller quantities frequently, rather than a large amount at one go. If you are unable to feed them often enough, you could provide them with rocks which have a lot of algal growth on them. Inappropriate kinds of food might make cause bloating, sickness, and may even be fatal. Cichlid care involves being aware of the specific needs of your cichlids, so do some research about them and their diets first.
Water ChangesAs I mentioned earlier, cichlid care begins with the aquarium. The aquarium being a closed environment, gets unclean quickly especially in case of overcrowding, excessive feeding, and ineffective filters. Hence you need to change the water regularly, and in small quantities. At least 10% of the aquarium water should be changed every week. Some species, such as the Malawi Cichlids which are prone to aggressiveness may become gentler with water changes of up to 30% every two weeks. Water changes if made more often during the breeding period, and during the time of raising the fry, is beneficial. If water changes are made regularly, then the level of substances that are potentially harmful will be reduced.
SubstratesSubstrates are used so that the alkalinity in the water may be maintained at its most optimum level. Substrates like gravel, crushed coral, and limestone help buffer the pH and maintain the alkalinity. Get a gravel siphon to clean the gravel. For tanks with undergravel filters, vacuuming is a good option to remove the dust and debris from the substrate. Tanks with plants however do not necessarily require vacuuming, as the roots themselves play a part in keeping the substrate clean. For African Cichlids, a 2" to 3" substrate works well as they dig a lot. For some cichlids, as little as a quarter inch of gravel works better.
Aggression ControlCichlids in general are territorial creatures, and hence they tend towards aggression in the lakes. The aquarium with its smaller area would naturally increase their aggression. It may not be possible to completely control cichlid aggression, but there are ways of reducing it. By employing methods such as reducing the temperatures in the aquarium, having a low male population, keeping species that are compatible with each other, isolating pairs that are breeding, a cichlid tank owner can control the aggression among his cichlids.
LightingLighting is also important for the aquarium. You need the appropriate lights to view your aquarium in the best possible way. Fluorescent lighting is the best as it reproduces the natural spectrum of light of the original habitat of the cichlids. Also, keep the lights subtle, as bright lights only disturb the fish, and also make them appear less colorful. Preferably, light your tank only towards evening. Leaving your aquarium lit throughout the day might lead to algae problems.
There are many other aspects to cichlid care such as adding salts to the water to help the cichlids combat pathogens and taking care of diseased fish, to decorating the aquarium itself.
Barb care (: !:
Barb Taxonomy Barbs belong to the family Cyprinidae, a group where you will find both carps and minnows. It is a very large and diverse group that contains everything from Goldfish to Bala Sharks. They do however have two things in common – the lack of teeth and adipose fins. When it comes down to genera, everything becomes really confusing because the Barbs have been moved back and forth a lot between various genera and the fish experts have still not agreed on how to classify certain species. Some authorities classify all the Barbs as members of the genus Barbus, while others consider a lot of the species as members of the genera Pontius, Barbodes or Capoeta instead. This is why you can encounter a lot of barb fishes outside the genus Barbus. Take for instance the Pool Barb, formerly known as Cyprinus sophore. This barb is today the type species of the genus Puntius and consequently named Puntius sophore.
A few examples of Barb species A majority of the barbs kept by aquarists hail from Asia, but you can also find many interesting Barb species on the African continent. One of the most well-know Barb species is the Tiger Barb, Capoeta tetrazona. This barb is easy to care for, as long you purchase a big enough school. A Tiger Barb should never be kept alone since this will make it highly stressed and susceptible to disease. Another example of a peaceful schooling Barb that is easy to care for is the colorful Cherry Barb, Capoeta titteya. The Rosy Barb, Puntius conchonius, has been selectively bred to form a rich profusion of different available colors, from bright red to golden yellow. It can also be obtained in long-finned varieties.
If you feel ready to keep a more demanding Barb species, why not try the charming Clown Barb, Barbus everetti? This species will need a big aquarium with really warm water and is highly susceptible to disease when kept in aquariums where the water is not warm enough at all times. It is also a potential plant eater. When the Clown Barb reaches adulthood, it becomes really beautiful and actually resembles a Japanese Koi fish.
For those interested in more unusual barbs, there is for instance the stripped Zebra barb, Barbodes fasciatus, and the purple Arulius barb, Barbus arulius. Barbodes fasciatus grows to be nearly five inches, and Barbus arulius can reach a length of four inches. The former sports black horizontal stripes over a bright yellow background and can be a bit violent, especially during spawning when it will form strong pair bonds. Barbus arulius is even more difficult to come by than Barbodes fasciatus and have a purple glossy main coloration decorated with black vertical bars. The male fish have filaments that can extend almost all the way to the caudal fin in older specimens.
Purchasing Barbs Barbs tend to look really dull when they are young and will not display their vibrant colors until they reach adulthood. They are therefore easy to miss in the pet store where they are outshined by more alluring fish. This is rather sad, because many Barbs make great aquarium fish and can be kept even by beginner aquarists. They are also fairly inexpensive and you can find many species suitable for comparatively small aquariums. The male Purplehead barb (Puntius nigrofasciatus) will for instance develop a deep raspberry coloration when it reaches adulthood and starts to breed, but when you encounter it as a juvenile specimen in a pet store holding tank it will look very unassuming. The Gold Barb (Puntius semifasciolatus) is another example of a barb species that looks really drab before blooming into a highly appealing yellow coloration.
Housing Barbs The recommended housing for Barbs will naturally vary depending on species and researching your particular species it therefore highly recommended. Generally speaking, Barbs will however require densely planted aquariums with plenty of hiding spots, otherwise they tend to become shy and stressed. Some Barb species will eat plants, but they can normally be housed in planted aquariums with out problem as long as you choose sturdy and fast growing plant species and keep your fish well fed. Many barb species are egg scatterers and prefer to breed in aquariums where they can scatter their eggs among plants. Quite a few barbs are fin nippers and should therefore not be housed with fish that has long and flowing delicate fins, e.g. Angelfish.
A few examples of Barb species A majority of the barbs kept by aquarists hail from Asia, but you can also find many interesting Barb species on the African continent. One of the most well-know Barb species is the Tiger Barb, Capoeta tetrazona. This barb is easy to care for, as long you purchase a big enough school. A Tiger Barb should never be kept alone since this will make it highly stressed and susceptible to disease. Another example of a peaceful schooling Barb that is easy to care for is the colorful Cherry Barb, Capoeta titteya. The Rosy Barb, Puntius conchonius, has been selectively bred to form a rich profusion of different available colors, from bright red to golden yellow. It can also be obtained in long-finned varieties.
If you feel ready to keep a more demanding Barb species, why not try the charming Clown Barb, Barbus everetti? This species will need a big aquarium with really warm water and is highly susceptible to disease when kept in aquariums where the water is not warm enough at all times. It is also a potential plant eater. When the Clown Barb reaches adulthood, it becomes really beautiful and actually resembles a Japanese Koi fish.
For those interested in more unusual barbs, there is for instance the stripped Zebra barb, Barbodes fasciatus, and the purple Arulius barb, Barbus arulius. Barbodes fasciatus grows to be nearly five inches, and Barbus arulius can reach a length of four inches. The former sports black horizontal stripes over a bright yellow background and can be a bit violent, especially during spawning when it will form strong pair bonds. Barbus arulius is even more difficult to come by than Barbodes fasciatus and have a purple glossy main coloration decorated with black vertical bars. The male fish have filaments that can extend almost all the way to the caudal fin in older specimens.
Purchasing Barbs Barbs tend to look really dull when they are young and will not display their vibrant colors until they reach adulthood. They are therefore easy to miss in the pet store where they are outshined by more alluring fish. This is rather sad, because many Barbs make great aquarium fish and can be kept even by beginner aquarists. They are also fairly inexpensive and you can find many species suitable for comparatively small aquariums. The male Purplehead barb (Puntius nigrofasciatus) will for instance develop a deep raspberry coloration when it reaches adulthood and starts to breed, but when you encounter it as a juvenile specimen in a pet store holding tank it will look very unassuming. The Gold Barb (Puntius semifasciolatus) is another example of a barb species that looks really drab before blooming into a highly appealing yellow coloration.
Housing Barbs The recommended housing for Barbs will naturally vary depending on species and researching your particular species it therefore highly recommended. Generally speaking, Barbs will however require densely planted aquariums with plenty of hiding spots, otherwise they tend to become shy and stressed. Some Barb species will eat plants, but they can normally be housed in planted aquariums with out problem as long as you choose sturdy and fast growing plant species and keep your fish well fed. Many barb species are egg scatterers and prefer to breed in aquariums where they can scatter their eggs among plants. Quite a few barbs are fin nippers and should therefore not be housed with fish that has long and flowing delicate fins, e.g. Angelfish.
Saltwater
Saltwater tanks are very colorful. However, they are relitively harder to take care of. This featers clownfish, lionfish, pacific blue tang, and a few more.
General
Water: Saltwater for marine fish is created by adding synthetic sea salt to tap water. A hydrometer is used to measure the salt content in your marine aquarium. Your salt content should measure around 1.023 (+/- .002). The more salt you add to the aquarium the higher the reading on the hydrometer. If you have too much salt in the aquarium, take some water out and replace it with de-chlorinated tap water. Fifty percent water change is recommended every 3 to 4 weeks.
Temperature: 70° to 85° F (21° to 29° C)
pH: 8.2 to 8.3
Habitat/Proper Aquarium Set up: The aquarium should have coral or aragonite sand to help maintain a high pH. For most saltwater fish, the aquarium should be decorated with lots of rocks and/or coral heads to provide plenty of caves for the fish to hide. Plastic plants can be added if so desired.
Food: Most saltwater fish will eat frozen brine shrimp and dry foods. For fish that like algae in their diet (Tangs, Angelfish) you can give them Romaine lettuce, or Nori Seaweed. Larger fish like Groupers, Lionfish, Moray Eels, and Snappers can be offered krill, silversides, large shrimp, small strips of raw fish, clam, and squid. Live food such as goldfish and ghost shrimp can also be offered to some fish that may be reluctant to eat prepared foods.
Special Note: When you bring home a new saltwater fish it is highly recommended that you first quarantine them in a small aquarium (10 or 20 gallons) for 3 weeks before you add them to a larger display tank. The quarantine tank should have copper in the water to kill any common saltwater parasites that may be on the fish. If you notice any parasites on your new fish you can also give them a freshwater bath for 30 seconds to 2 minutes. This will often kill many of the parasites that are on the fish.
Temperature: 70° to 85° F (21° to 29° C)
pH: 8.2 to 8.3
Habitat/Proper Aquarium Set up: The aquarium should have coral or aragonite sand to help maintain a high pH. For most saltwater fish, the aquarium should be decorated with lots of rocks and/or coral heads to provide plenty of caves for the fish to hide. Plastic plants can be added if so desired.
Food: Most saltwater fish will eat frozen brine shrimp and dry foods. For fish that like algae in their diet (Tangs, Angelfish) you can give them Romaine lettuce, or Nori Seaweed. Larger fish like Groupers, Lionfish, Moray Eels, and Snappers can be offered krill, silversides, large shrimp, small strips of raw fish, clam, and squid. Live food such as goldfish and ghost shrimp can also be offered to some fish that may be reluctant to eat prepared foods.
Special Note: When you bring home a new saltwater fish it is highly recommended that you first quarantine them in a small aquarium (10 or 20 gallons) for 3 weeks before you add them to a larger display tank. The quarantine tank should have copper in the water to kill any common saltwater parasites that may be on the fish. If you notice any parasites on your new fish you can also give them a freshwater bath for 30 seconds to 2 minutes. This will often kill many of the parasites that are on the fish.
Clownfish !: ):
Saltwater Fish Species Profile and Care Information Scientific Name : Amphiprion ocellaris Other Common Names : Anemone Fish, Orange Anemone Fish, Nemo
Clownfish Care Level : Easy, very hardy and good for saltwater beginners, especially the tank raised clowns which should acclimate easier than their wild caught counterparts. Also, keeping them with anemones is not necessary. Only keep anemones if you have the proper aquarium lighting.
Size : 3 - 4 inches (10 cm)
pH : 8 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.024
Lifespan : 3 - 6 years generally, but see comment below from Dudley who has a pair of percula clowns that has been alive for 27 years!
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific to Oceania
Temperament / Behavior : Usually they are a very peaceful marine fish. Avoid mixing the various clown species though. If you have a mix of different clown species in your tank, they will fight. If you have a host anemone in the aquarium with them, they will defend it. It usually works out best if you have only one or a pair of clowns in your tank.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and it is usually better to buy a tank raised fish because they will adapt better in the home aquarium. More information on breeding clownfish.
Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with Lionfish, Snappers, Groupers, Triggers, Eels or any other predatory fish large enough to eat them. Keep only one clown species in your aquarium. Do not mix the various clown species.
Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore - provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they will also accept flake food.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : All are males when they are born. As they mature and start to pair off the dominant one will change into a female. The female is usually larger than the male and will be the primary defender of their territory.
Compatible Anemones : Bubble Tip Anemone (Rose Anemone) (Entacmaea quadricolor)
Magnificent Anemone (Ritteri Sea Anemone) (Heteractis magnifica)
Giant Carpet Anemone (Stichodactyla gigantea)
Saddle Carpet Anemone (Haddon's Sea Anemone) (Stichodactyla haddoni
Clownfish Care Level : Easy, very hardy and good for saltwater beginners, especially the tank raised clowns which should acclimate easier than their wild caught counterparts. Also, keeping them with anemones is not necessary. Only keep anemones if you have the proper aquarium lighting.
Size : 3 - 4 inches (10 cm)
pH : 8 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.024
Lifespan : 3 - 6 years generally, but see comment below from Dudley who has a pair of percula clowns that has been alive for 27 years!
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific to Oceania
Temperament / Behavior : Usually they are a very peaceful marine fish. Avoid mixing the various clown species though. If you have a mix of different clown species in your tank, they will fight. If you have a host anemone in the aquarium with them, they will defend it. It usually works out best if you have only one or a pair of clowns in your tank.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and it is usually better to buy a tank raised fish because they will adapt better in the home aquarium. More information on breeding clownfish.
Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with Lionfish, Snappers, Groupers, Triggers, Eels or any other predatory fish large enough to eat them. Keep only one clown species in your aquarium. Do not mix the various clown species.
Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore - provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they will also accept flake food.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : All are males when they are born. As they mature and start to pair off the dominant one will change into a female. The female is usually larger than the male and will be the primary defender of their territory.
Compatible Anemones : Bubble Tip Anemone (Rose Anemone) (Entacmaea quadricolor)
Magnificent Anemone (Ritteri Sea Anemone) (Heteractis magnifica)
Giant Carpet Anemone (Stichodactyla gigantea)
Saddle Carpet Anemone (Haddon's Sea Anemone) (Stichodactyla haddoni
Trigger fish !: ):
Scientific Name : Rhinecanthus aculeatus Common Names : Humuhumu Triggerfish, Blackbar Triggerfish, Prickly, Kaputput, White Banded Triggerfish, White Barred Triggerfish
Picasso Trigger Fish Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 10 inches (25 cm)
Life span : 5 - 10 years
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, Tahiti
Temperament / Behavior : Can be peaceful if given a large tank and should get along with larger marine specimens. It may eat smaller fish. Provide plenty of hiding spaces (live rock).
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : One male will serve multiple females. The female will guard the eggs until they hatch. In the wild, once they hatch they are on their own. To our knowledge these have not been tank raised yet.
Tank Size : 75 gallon minimum, the more space it has the less aggressive it should be.
Compatible Tank Mates : Not suitable for a reef tank since they enjoy munching on crustaceans and other small invertebrates. Keep them with larger, more aggressive fish.
Fish Disease :Always Quarantine new arrivals!
Diet / Fish Food : Primay diet in the wild is crustaceans and small shrimp. They can be trained to eat frozen foods. Give them a high quality and a varied diet. Frozen meaty foods and frozen foods including marine algae would be good supplements. Feed at least 2 times per day.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but males may be larger than females of the same age
Picasso Trigger Fish Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 10 inches (25 cm)
Life span : 5 - 10 years
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, Tahiti
Temperament / Behavior : Can be peaceful if given a large tank and should get along with larger marine specimens. It may eat smaller fish. Provide plenty of hiding spaces (live rock).
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : One male will serve multiple females. The female will guard the eggs until they hatch. In the wild, once they hatch they are on their own. To our knowledge these have not been tank raised yet.
Tank Size : 75 gallon minimum, the more space it has the less aggressive it should be.
Compatible Tank Mates : Not suitable for a reef tank since they enjoy munching on crustaceans and other small invertebrates. Keep them with larger, more aggressive fish.
Fish Disease :Always Quarantine new arrivals!
Diet / Fish Food : Primay diet in the wild is crustaceans and small shrimp. They can be trained to eat frozen foods. Give them a high quality and a varied diet. Frozen meaty foods and frozen foods including marine algae would be good supplements. Feed at least 2 times per day.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but males may be larger than females of the same age
Yellow tang !: (:
Scientific Name : Zebrasoma flavescens Common Names : Yellow Sailfin Tang, Lemon Surgeonfish, Yellow Surgeonfish
Care Level : Easy to Moderate, good for saltwater beginners with a fully cycled aquarium.
Life span : 5 - 7 years, possibly longer
Size : 7 - 8 inches (20 cm)
pH : 8 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.024
Origin / Habitat : South Pacific Ocean near Hawaii, Marshall and Wake Islands.
Temperament / Behavior : It's best to keep only one tang in your aquarium because they can become territorial with other tangs. They will usually play nicely with others (except tangs) in a community tank setup. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : It's not very common for them to breed in captivity
Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with other Tangs.
Reef Tank Compatible? : This tang will do well in a marine reef tank setup. They can help perform a small role in grazing some of the algae that may grow in a reef tank.
Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment, a quarantine tank is a must with this species.
Diet / Fish Food : Herbivore, have plenty of live rock and/or be prepared to give them dried seaweed or dried algae using a lettuce clip. They will also accept flake, pellet foods and live foods.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but the female may be larger than males of the same age.
References / Recommended Reading :
"Zebrasoma flavescens". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005. Fenner, R. M. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. (3rd Printing). T.F.H. Publications.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H. Publications.
Paletta, Michael (2001). The New Marine Aquarium, Step-by-step Setup and Stocking Guide. T.F.H. Publications.
Care Level : Easy to Moderate, good for saltwater beginners with a fully cycled aquarium.
Life span : 5 - 7 years, possibly longer
Size : 7 - 8 inches (20 cm)
pH : 8 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.024
Origin / Habitat : South Pacific Ocean near Hawaii, Marshall and Wake Islands.
Temperament / Behavior : It's best to keep only one tang in your aquarium because they can become territorial with other tangs. They will usually play nicely with others (except tangs) in a community tank setup. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : It's not very common for them to breed in captivity
Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with other Tangs.
Reef Tank Compatible? : This tang will do well in a marine reef tank setup. They can help perform a small role in grazing some of the algae that may grow in a reef tank.
Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment, a quarantine tank is a must with this species.
Diet / Fish Food : Herbivore, have plenty of live rock and/or be prepared to give them dried seaweed or dried algae using a lettuce clip. They will also accept flake, pellet foods and live foods.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but the female may be larger than males of the same age.
References / Recommended Reading :
"Zebrasoma flavescens". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005. Fenner, R. M. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. (3rd Printing). T.F.H. Publications.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H. Publications.
Paletta, Michael (2001). The New Marine Aquarium, Step-by-step Setup and Stocking Guide. T.F.H. Publications.
Moorish idol ):
cientific Name : Zanclus cornutus Common Names : Moorish Idol
Care Level : Very Difficult
Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm)
Life span : Unknown, usually short lived in captivity due to acclimation issues and nutritional problems
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, Hawaii
Temperament / Behavior : Generally, Moorish Idols are peaceful and can be kept in multiples in large enough systems.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult to keep, let alone breed in captivity.
Tank Size : 100 gallon (379 liters) minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Use caution when selecting tank mates. Avoid keeping them with overly aggressive species. May keep a small school of multiples in larger tanks. May not be a good choice for reef tanks because they may pick at sps corals.
Diet / Fish Food : This is the most difficult aspect of keeping this fish. They are omnivorous and they eat marine algae and sponges in the ocean. Try to give them a variety of live marine foods. Having plenty of live rock for them to graze on may help.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine the differences between males and females.
Care Level : Very Difficult
Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm)
Life span : Unknown, usually short lived in captivity due to acclimation issues and nutritional problems
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, Hawaii
Temperament / Behavior : Generally, Moorish Idols are peaceful and can be kept in multiples in large enough systems.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult to keep, let alone breed in captivity.
Tank Size : 100 gallon (379 liters) minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Use caution when selecting tank mates. Avoid keeping them with overly aggressive species. May keep a small school of multiples in larger tanks. May not be a good choice for reef tanks because they may pick at sps corals.
Diet / Fish Food : This is the most difficult aspect of keeping this fish. They are omnivorous and they eat marine algae and sponges in the ocean. Try to give them a variety of live marine foods. Having plenty of live rock for them to graze on may help.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine the differences between males and females.
Puffer fish !:
Scientific Name : Diodon holacanthus Common Names : Balloon Porcupine Fish, Spiny Puffer
Porcupine Puffer Fish Care Level : Moderate
Size : 12 inches (30 cm), sometimes even larger
Life span : 5 years or longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Western Atlantic, Eastern Atlantic, South Africa, Red Sea
Temperament / Behavior : This can be a cool fish in the right setup. They may nip at and eat smaller fish, invertebrates and crustaceans. This fish is NOT considered reef tank safe.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : We don't believe that this fish has been bred in captivity yet.
Tank Size : 100 gallon (380 liters) minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Tangs and wrasses would make good tankmates. Anything smaller could become puffer snacks. Not suitable for a reef tank setup.
Diet / Fish Food : They like to eat crustaceans so frozen meaty marine cubes work well as well as small pieces of fresh shrimp. Give them some of the herbivore frozen foods a few times per week and try to get them to eat vitamin enriched flake foods too.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Very difficult to determine the differences between males and females.
Porcupine Puffer Fish Care Level : Moderate
Size : 12 inches (30 cm), sometimes even larger
Life span : 5 years or longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Western Atlantic, Eastern Atlantic, South Africa, Red Sea
Temperament / Behavior : This can be a cool fish in the right setup. They may nip at and eat smaller fish, invertebrates and crustaceans. This fish is NOT considered reef tank safe.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : We don't believe that this fish has been bred in captivity yet.
Tank Size : 100 gallon (380 liters) minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Tangs and wrasses would make good tankmates. Anything smaller could become puffer snacks. Not suitable for a reef tank setup.
Diet / Fish Food : They like to eat crustaceans so frozen meaty marine cubes work well as well as small pieces of fresh shrimp. Give them some of the herbivore frozen foods a few times per week and try to get them to eat vitamin enriched flake foods too.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Very difficult to determine the differences between males and females.
Tips and tricks- Both water types
- Every fish has its own advantages and disadvantages and various hereditary diseases, and you also want to ensure they will get along with other breeds.
- Once every few months, clean out your filter but wash it in tank water in a bucket to ensure you're not killing off the beneficial bacteria.
- If your temperature gets too hot no matter what, keep the lid partially open and aim a fan at the surface. It's not ideal, but it works.
- When introducing fish to your tank, float them in their plastic bags full of water from the store inside your tank for up to 40 minutes, adding a bit of your tank water to the bag every 10 or so minutes. This allows the fish to get used to the temperature, because drastic temperature changes can kill a fish. When the bag is almost full, use your net and scoop up the fish and put him in your tank. Do not allow the pet store water to touch your own--it may be contaminated.
- Minimize algae growth, but don't eliminated it all together--many fish and sea animals need it for food.
- Local pet stores are much preferred, are often cheaper, are usually always more knowledgeable and helpful and tend to offer discounts if you become a loyal customer.
- Don't overcrowd your tank--the norm used to be "one inch of fish per gallon" but remember, you have other things in the tank beside water that are taking up space.
- Don't over-feed your fish.
- Avoid tank decorations--the more space the fish have, the happier they'll be and the less frequently you'll need to change the water.
Other
If you have noticed anything about your fish, contact us below and we'll add it to fish care.
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